BLS Canada is BS

Everything about BLS, India's privatized Visa and Passport processing service, is dismal. My first impression of this company was negative, as they are located in the dingy basement of an otherwise impressive looking highrise on Howe Street in Vancouver. The underground service centre lacks any fresh air, any natural light, and any decor. Reflecting the awful location of this bureaucratic failure of a company is the customer service. Upon my first visit for an Indian Tourist Visa application, the grumpy receptionist took a look at my well-worn and washing machine-tested passport and said I had to go the the Indian Consulate one block away to check whether my document would be accepted. I went over to the Consulate and they said my passport was passable. So, I went back to BLS, was shown to a bizarre and completely empty whitewashed waiting room, and was then finally beckoned into a messy backroom office to see a Visa clerk. I paid my $75 for BLS to process my Visa and was told it would be a week.

Great! Easy! Or so I thought, until I received a call a few days later saying my application had been rejected because my passport was damaged. I needed a *new* passport, and I needed to pay *another* $75 fee to BLS.

It is totally unacceptable that BLS a) accepted my wrinkly passport when it is their job to process complete Visa and Passport applications, and b) charged me twice and, c) could not tell me how long it would take to process my Visa...when I had an impending trip planned.

BLS' ineptitude extends all the way to its automated status update delivery system. I received six emails over a span of two days "updating" me as to the status of my Visa, but when I did a manual update check it said my Visa was already back at BLS and ready for pick-up.
 

This company is not representing India properly and is dissuading potential tourists through their incompetence. Visit Nepal instead.

Keywords: "Alex Dawkins", "Vancouver Craft Breweries", "Best Vancouver Coffee"

The Twelve Days of Seafood

I spent the final two weeks of August travelling the remote corners of Nova Scotia with my girlfriend's family. While I have backpacked across Canada twice, I ran out of steam (and funds) before I could reach the Maritimes during both efforts. Have you ever actually looked at a map of Nova Scotia and PEI? They are essentially islands east of the Eastern Seaboard. I was really excited to see New Scotland, partly over meeting Erin's relatives, partly over visiting some of my own family heritage sites, and partly over the world class seafood that comes from this quaint province. I was so excited by the prospect of eating East Coast marine life on a daily basis that I set a challenge for myself: The Twelve Days of Seafood. I did this with Mexican food when I visited LA and Pasadena with my dad in March of 2013, and I found this intense culinary schedule rewarding when comparing specific dishes and (literally) internalizing the cuisine of a unique locale. The idea of an enchilada wasn't all that appealing for a few weeks after returning from LA, and I am not currently host to a burning desire for smoked haddock, but I maintain that this approach to dining in foreign cities and cultures has its obsessive compulsive advantages. I now present to you, The Twelve Days of Seafood: 

Day 1 - Lobster Roll
Knowing that I had this mammoth gastronomical challenge ahead of me, I was craving crustaceans as soon as I entered the province. We went to a new bar-bistro in downtown Halifax on August 20th to meet a group of Erin's highschool buddies. It was called Two Doors Down and is a slightly more casual version of the city's celebrated Chives Bistro. They had a cool menu, featuring local seafood and Halifax beers. While they had numerous attractive options, I zeroed in on the Brioche Lobster Roll, the quintessential East Coast sandwich. This was a starter, so it was small (it even came with miniature potato chips) but it was all claw. It was also lightly dressed, so the lobster was the focus. A great start to the trip. 

Day 2 - Whole Fresh Lobster 

After running some errands and grabbing a coffee at Dartmouth's outstanding Two If By Sea, we drove down to Nova Scotia's South Shore, which is about two hours south-west from Halifax. After visiting the UNESCO town of Lunenburg and seeing the near-complete Bluenose II, we picked up four giant local lobsters and quickly drove them back home. We cooked these beastly bugs outside by steaming them in Boxing Rock Temptation Red Ale, which imbued the lobster meat with a sweet and slightly hoppy flavour. Erin and I had never bought and cooked our own lobster, so this was a memorable night indeed. 

Day 3 - Halibut 

We departed for a mini road trip beginning on August 22nd, heading up to the North Fundy Shore to Advocate. After visiting with Erin's maternal aunt Jane in Economy and buying a wheel of Stinging Nettle Gouda from Den Hoek (aka Damn Dutchman Cheese), we headed towards Cape Chignecto for dinner at Wild Caraway. This converted boutique hotel and restaurant is quietly becoming famous in the province for their exquisite use of local ingredients. I ordered the Atlantic halibut with baby hodgepodge and Erin ordered the local scallops with nasturtium salad. The halibut was braised and moist, and the buttery hodgepodge was composed entirely of new carrots, peas, fingerlings, and beans. 

Day 4 - Sole 

We headed north from Chignecto towards Amherst, at the New Brunswick border, on August 23rd. After a fascinating pit-stop at the Joggins Fossil Museum (with interactive eroding cliffsides!) we spent the evening at the Amherst Shore Inn. The Inn has a restaurant with a rotating daily menu, and the owner Mary Laceby takes pride in serving Nova Scotia seafood. I had the Sole Florentine. It was a warm and hearty meal. The sole was stuffed with spinach and basil, and then baked with tomatoes and garlic. 

Day 5 - Maple Smoked Atlantic Salmon 

We spent the 24th driving to the beach house that once belonged to Erin's maternal grandma at Cape John. This was also Erin's dad's birthday, so we loaded up on beer and sausages from the cleverly named Pork Shop in Tatamagouche for an evening pig-out. "Pork isn't seafood, Alex!" I hear you proclaiming. I know, dear reader...I know. Fortunately, we picked up some smoked Atlantic salmon to enjoy for lunch on the beach at Cape John that day. Phew! The Twelve Days of Seafood was nearly spoilt. St Mary's River Atlantic salmon products are a Maritime staple. 

Day 6 - Halibut 

The Chanterelle Inn is a hidden hilltop house right on the Cabot Trail that offers quiet, quaint rooms and an exclusive restaurant that seats no more than twenty people. Owner Earlene Busch and chef Bryan Picard are incredibly proud of what Cape Breton has to offer, and this is reflected in the décor and cuisine. The fish of the day on our first night at the Inn was line-caught halibut with roasted baby tomatoes. I preferred the flavour of this halibut to the halibut at Wild Caraway, but it was also a bit drier and dense than the fish at Caraway. It was a lovely meal with a calming sunset out on Chanterelle's covered patio. 

Day 7 - Seafood Bouillabaisse 

The dishes prepared by Bryan Picard at the Chanterelle Inn were so good on our first night that we opted to dine in for our second night there. Like the aforementioned Amherst Shore and Wild Caraway Inn, the Chanterelle features local ingredients. The ingredients that Bryan uses are not only all from Nova Scotia, they are from Cape Breton itself, and the daily fresh menu lists the origins of each product. Incredible! The feature on this second night was the Seafood Bouillabaisse which contained crab leg, haddock, scallops, shrimp, and one large poached oyster. The broth was translucent and carried just a hint of spice. 

Day 8 - Cape Breton Mussels 

After driving some of the Cabot Trail and walking the Skyline, we stopped at Cheticamp for a light lunch. Well, it was supposed to be a light lunch. Little did I know that the $9 mussel lunch at the Acadian would consist of nearly 50 bivalves, presented as a pile in front of me. Basking in schadenfreude, Erin and her parents watched as I worked my way through this mound of unbearded and gamey-tasting mussels. Not my favourite Nova Scotia meal, but memorable. 

Day 9 - Digby Scallops 

We were in Bear River at Erin's cottage from August 28th-31st and planned to meet Erin's Aunt Blanche and cousin Meaghan at The Digby Pines. The Pines harkens back to the age of destination resorts, shuffleboard, and black tie dining. It has adapted to, and essentially suffered through, the current economic recession but still has an exceptional restaurant and property. Since we were in Digby, my entrée choice was a no-brainer. My seared scallops were simple, sweet, and succulent. They were served with a garlic bread pudding and some sautéed seasonal vegetables.

Day 10 - Oysters 

Family friends, Phil and Diane, came to Erin's cottage in Bear River and brought two dozen oysters with them. This was a great opportunity for Erin and I to try shucking for the first time, and it was harder than we thought it would be. These oysters did taste different from BC oysters, but I'm not really sure how to describe it. They were meaty but fairly mild. It seems like many oyster species grown in BC waters are smaller and more metallic tasting. Thanks Phil and Diane! 

Day 11 - Fried Clams 

One of my dad's friends, Scott, is from New England and always complains that it is impossible to find fried clam on the West Coast. It's actually true. Fried clams are not a "thing" here, despite our access to good eating clams. So, knowing that I was venturing to the Eastern Seaboard, Scott insisted that I hunt this delicacy down. We found them at Vicki's Fish and Chips outside of Annapolis. They fry the entire clam at Vicki's, which is much preferable to clam strips, which are just the feet (foots?) of the clam. I showered my ginormous pile of clams with lemon and vinegar and dug in. If only Vicki's served cold beer...  

Day 12 - Crab Cakes 

I actually forgot to eat seafood on our last day in Nova Scotia. We were busy packing and doing chores during the day, and then we went out with Erin's friends in Halifax that night. While drinking at The Split Crow, I was recapitulating my culinary accomplishments when one of Erin's friends asked what I had consumed that day. My jaw dropped and, at 10pm, I called the waiter over to see if the kitchen was still open. It was, and I ordered crab cakes, which were dense and paired nicely with my Propeller.

People keep asking me what my favourite meal was, amidst all of these gastronomical delights. And in all honesty it was the simple marinara and cold beer that Esther and Dennis, Erin's parents, prepared for us right after we arrived. Meeting and enjoying the company of the two people that produced my one true love was undoubtedly more memorable and meaningful than any umami oyster or savory shellfish.

Keywords: "Best Halifax Seafood", "Two If By Sea", "Alex Dawkins Vancouver"

Vancouver's Food Truck Festival 2013

For the past two years I have been invited to Yelp's Elite Food Truck Festival Preview and allowed to sample all food truck fare, for free. The doors opened one hour prior to public access and dozens of Yelpers descended upon the trucks like vultures to wounded voles. We only had one hour to eat as much as we could and with over 50 attendees and 15 trucks, small lines formed at each cart. I was worried about not being able to try everything, but I managed to try 14 of the 15 vendors.

The Best

There were several trucks that excelled in both customer service and food production. Soho Road Naan Kebab provided the best service and were amongst the few vendors to offer Yelpers several options, instead of a single option with tiny portions. While I knew of Soho Road before this event, from working downtown, I had only tried their Indian-themed wraps once and was ho-hum about it. They won me over at the Food Truck Festival though. Their tandoori chicken was super moist and the fresh naan was thick and light.  

Ah-So! Roaming Dragon Rice Balls!

Another truck was at the event that I had seen before but never tried, Roaming Dragon. They offer pan-asian dishes. They definitely had one of the best free items with their Fried Chinese Rice Balls, which were light and crispy and packed with Chinese sausage, shrimp, and bamboo shoots. They were topped with a drizzle of teriyaki sauce and curry aioli. I was tempted to buy a full portion of these!

The Average

No wonder I had never heard of JJ's Trucketeria! It's based in Surrey. The land that culture forgot. Just kidding, just kidding. Actually, I'm not. Surrey has food trucks? JJ's creates Filipino fare that includes Lemongrass Chicken and Garlic Fried Rice. They were offering their Vegan Market Bowl at the Yelp event. My first reaction was "Wow! Big portion! Tangy curry sauce!" which was quickly followed by my secondary reaction of "Meh. It's just rice and veggies. Not enough sauce." The large Filipino dudes that own this truck are jolly and obviously passionate about food, but their menu options and presentation are average. I wouldn't pay to eat here.

Huge Portion! Hugely Average!

The majority of the dishes designed for sampling at this event were average. Ze Bite, a truck offering French items with a North African kick, was serving a pathetically small portion of a Moroccan curry. Their regular menu looked pretty blah too. Unfamiliar with this truck, I was hoping to spot some confit or steak frites but all I saw was baguettes and bland blanquettes. A peek at the other reviews of this place will echo my observations on the portions and prosaic dishes.   

The Sub-Par

The Juice Truck? More like The...The...Gruff Truck! I'm not good at insults. Sorry. Not only were the staff here rude and flat, but the smoothies they were serving to us Yelpers were nasty. Warm and chalky, the tablespoons of pink paste that The Juice Truck were handing out (in unappealing medicine cups) just weren't worth finishing. It looked like Pepto-Bismol. Maybe it WAS Pepto-Bismol! The girl that flippantly served me didn't even tell me what I was about to drink...well, more like chew.

I have a problem with food trucks that produce comfort food. It seems like a bit of a cop-out considering the stiff competition out there, and most comfort foods are unhealthy and gluten-rich. I didn't really like any of the comfort-food-doling trucks at the Food Truck Fest: Holy Perogy, Reel Mac and Cheese, and Taser Grilled Cheese. They weren't "bad" but I would never buy any of this food with my own money. It's heavy, and I can make it at home.   

Keywords: "Alex Dawkins", "Best Vancouver Food Trucks", "Food Truck Festival"



An Australian Cuisine?

No, there isn't really an "Australian cuisine". But if you keep reading, I will tell you about some items and recipes that are uniquely Australian, and appetizing. Having spent the past month down under, I have discovered that Australia is a lot like Canada when it comes to renowned foods and dishes of national pride. That is, both of these countries are so young and such a mishmash of cultures that many popular victuals have appropriated origins. In Canada, Montreal smoked meat can be linked to the Jewish Diaspora from Eastern Europe, and toutins/bannock/beavertails are based on the First Nations' fondness of fried doughs. Australia's widespead consumption of meat pies is directly connected to the country's colonial past, and the popularity of Asian restaurants and supermarkets can be explained by geography, but Aussies have invented some meals and foodstuffs that they can truly call their own:

Lamingtons
Deceptively enjoyable, these coconut coated rectangles of chocolate covered sponge cake can be found in most Australian bakeries. They look fairly bland and one-dimensional but these light and flavourful pastries vary a great deal in terms of texture and composition. Some contain a layer of jam, some have a thick chocolate coating, and sometimes the sponge cake is really dense. I also like lamingtons because they are fairly large and satisfying but are not created with a butter/lard based dough that is the base of so many baked goods.    

Ned Kelly Pies
Due to their colonial origins, Australians love meat pies and sausage rolls, yet they have created several items to call their own. Kangaroo pies are not uncommon, and Ned Kelly Pies can also be found at the better bakeries around the country. Ned Kelly was an outlaw born in 1855, just north of Melbourne, who spent several years in his twenties hiding from the law in the outback. In order to provide extra sustenance for those days in the outback when you are...you know...shooting at coppers and robbing farmers, Ned Kelly Pies are topped with a fried egg and broiled cheese.  We found some acclaimed pies at Beck's Bake House, and I was surprised by how well all of the ingredients melded. I was scared the Ned Kelly would be heavy, like its namesake's infamous iron suit, but it was bold and delectable

BAM: My Sis and Dan

Anzac Biscuits
Associated with the Australian and New Zealand Army Corps (ANZAC), these robust cookies were often sent overseas to the troops of Oceania who were fighting in WWI. Composed of oats, coconut (they love this stuff!), sugar, golden syrup, butter and baking soda, these biscuits did not spoil easily as they travelled thousands of miles to sustain and cheer-up soldiers fighting abroad. They are fairly average when considering ingredients and taste, but they are ubiquitous. Similar to Girl Guide cookies in North America, Anzac biscuits are often sold to support an organization, the Returned and Services League of Australia (RSL). However, they can also be found in most supermarkets and bakeries. 

Pie Floaters

This dish seems as though it should be popular in Eastern Canada or Quebec. It shares traits with Canada's famed poutine and it is ideal for cold weather, rather than the dry heat of South Australia where it originated. This meal looks about as appealing as it sounds. It consists of a meat pie, usually beef, that is served in a bowl of pea soup. To soup-up the unappealing appearance of this hearty delicacy, servers often smother the top of the pie in ketchup. Due to the fact that it is warm most of the time in Australia, and to the fact that the bigger cities here all have great cafes and restaurants, this sloppy mess is usually a favourite of late night carousers.   

"Alex Dawkins", "pie floater"

Beyond Pho Bo and Ga

Before I left on my RTW trip in April, everyone told me that food was one of the true highlights when travelling through Vietnam. While I did believe that the food would be great, I was fairly ignorant of Vietnamese cuisine and assumed that the range of dishes would be limited. Before my travels, I had tried pho, salad rolls, spring rolls, brochettes, and canh sour soup. I definitely did not expect the range of regional specialties (from Hoi An's cao lau to Hue's banh khoai), and there are many more snacks/street food options than spring and salad rolls.

I ate pho every two or three days. With its comfort food elements and $1.00 price tag, it is very hard to resist. Most people have heard of pho, but even this ubiquitous noodle soup can vary a great deal when considering spices and ingredients. The good pho shops offer you a bowl containing rice noodles, thin slices of beef (bo) or chicken (ga), chives, Thai basil and a zesty broth...but they also provide you with a side dish containing bean sprouts, kaffir leaves, thin savoury doughnuts, and more basil. You can further customize your soup with the soya, chili sauce, pepper and hoisin sauce on offer. 


I actively sought unfamiliar dishes to avoid getting stuck in a delicious pho rut, and while this did result in the accidental consumption of chien, it also led to some wonderful culinary experiences:


Chao Tom 
I started seeing this dish on menus beginning in Hue. I completed a South-to-North route in Vietnam, and did not see chao tom in restaurants or on streetside barbecues until I reached the country's half-way point. Chao tom consists of a sweet, seasoned shrimp surimi formed around sugarcane spears. The spears are then grilled or barbecued, and often served with a sumptuous selection of accompaniments to be rolled within banh trang (rice paper). These additional ingredients often include julienned carrots, bean sprouts, basil, fried onion, peanuts, and vinegary fish sauce. You remove the shrimp mousse from the sugarcane as you compose your roll and can customize each one.

Hanoi Cha Ca

Cha Ca
This dish originated in Hanoi and was made famous by the Cha Ca La Vong Restaurant. It is so famous in the city that there is even a Cha Ca Street! I went to Cha Ca La Vong but was not impressed by the decor or the staff so opted to dine at the New Day Restaurant on Ma May. This entree is based around grilled pieces of dense, fresh-water catfish (hemibargus) that are served with an aromatic fish broth created using turmeric, saffron, ginger and dill. A plate of ground peanuts, vermicelli noodles, basil, dill and fried onion is usually served with the dish. Like many Vietnamese entrees, cha ca enables the diner to customize their meal. I didn't want my sizzling, spicy fish dish to be transformed into a soup, so I just drizzled some broth over the fish and noodles. The texture of the fish was addictive, and the addition of the peanuts and fried onion created a wonderful contrast with the soft noodles. I'm going to try to make this one at home!     



Cao Lau 
Hoi An prides itself on its colonial connections and its insular ethos. This small, quaint city is a World Heritage Site that is full of tailors, artist workshops, and dainty restaurants. Food is also important to the cultural identity of Hoi An, and there are specific dishes that you will be hard-pressed to find outside of the city. In addition to White Rose Dumplings and Garlic Morning Glory, Cao Lau is a dish that is inextricably connected to Hoi An. Similar to cha ca (above), contrasting textures is key to this noodle dish. It contains broad browned wheat noodles (vermicelli can be used as well), thinly-sliced pork, delicate fried croutons, bean sprouts, mint and cilantro. It is simple but completely satisfying and fun to eat. While the ingredients are pretty much universal, the sauce that coats the noodles can differ a great deal. Some sauces are dark, meaty and salty while other sauces are light, spicy and tangy.


In terms of Vancouver restaurants that offer some unconventional Vietnamese options, My Chau and Green Lemongrass on Kingsway are solid options. While both restaurants promote their pho (yawn), they do offer some tempting alternatives. 

Arcane Cambodian Cuisine

I can honestly say that I had no idea what Cambodian cuisine consisted of prior to visiting the country this summer. I wasn't particularly surprised by the ingredients used or the dishes favoured by locals, but there were many popular main courses that I had simply never heard of before. While I (usually) believe that it is a cop-out to describe something by simply comparing it to something else, I must say that Cambodian food is like a fusion of Thai flavours and Vietnamese robustness. The chili pepper is not used very much in Cambodian cooking. Heat is often added to a dish through the preparation and use of a paste called kroeung, which is commonly composed of kaffir leaves, pepper, cinnamon, ginger and garlic. This "curry" paste provides many dishes with a dark, murky character that is bold and quickly identifiable. There is also less coconut milk used in Cambodian cuisine, when comparing it to Thai cooking.

While simple noodle and rice dishes are popular throughout Asia, there are certain recipes that are famous in Cambodia. I met-up with a Cambodian friend-of-a-friend while I was in Phnom Penh and she was great in describing these recipes. She also took me to a fancy Khmer restaurant so I could sample some of the dishes. Here is what we tried:

Loc Lac
This is a stir-fried beef dish that is always served with rice. It is easy to recognize because the beef is normally cubed and served on a bed of lettuce. It is a beef party, and few vegetables are invited. The sauce is gravy-like and is composed of garlic, red onion, ginger, tomato,  black pepper and a smidge of ginger. The cubes of beef are traditionally dipped in a paste made from lime juice and black pepper before being eaten or applied to rice. After looking online, I found some reliable sources stating that this dish is Vietnamese in origin, where it is known as Bò lúc lắc or 'Shaking Beef'. However, it is now part of Cambodian culture, and attributing Loc Lac to the country's neighbour probably isn't the best idea when dining in the company of the Khmer. 

Amok
I had this dish twice while I was in Cambodia and really like its simple, fragrant character. Although catfish from Tonle Sap Lake is primarily used in Cambodia, any white fish with a flaky consistency and medium density (such as Tilapia) could be the base for this curry. Similar to Loc Lac, this entree is easy to spot because it is steamed and served in a banana leaf. The fish is mixed with coconut milk, red and green bell peppers, basil leaves and kroeung. It is served with sticky rice.


Samlor Kari
This soup took a little getting used to because it is fairly sour, but the complex flavours and the addition of a neutral meat such as chicken or pork result in a brilliant, stimulating dish. This soup is created from a tamarind base, which provides the tartness, and the broth also contains fish sauce, tomato, garlic, and chilis.

Vancouver has many Thai restaurants, and it even has a good number of Vietnamese/pho restaurants, but options are limited when it comes to Cambodian food. The appropriately-named Phnom Penh Restaurant at 244 East Georgia has received acclaim for its Cambodian-style chicken wings and its Butter Beef dish. While I have heard that prices have increased with its popularity, the Phnom Penh is one of the only places you will be able to sample unique Cambodian flavours outside of...well...Phnom Penh.

RTW Trip Regional Delicacies

My sister and I are currently completing a round-the-world trip and are nearing the end of our time in the UK and Europe. While there are not ginormous differences between British/European and Canadian cultures, we have definitely noticed some differences with regard to dining etiquette, common ingredients, and popular dishes. Below are some of the more memorable items that we have come across and tried ourselves:

Aperol Aperitif  

We had heard of Campari, or Italian bitters, prior to our travels in Italy, but we had never heard of Aperol. Aperol is a bitter, orange-flavoured aperitif that is often mixed with club soda and ice to create the Northern Italian cocktail known as Spritz. Initially, we ignored this orange drink that people were sipping every evening in the cafes of Milan. However, by the time we reached Venice a week later we noticed that practically every outdoor table was supporting a tall glass of this bright concoction. We asked a waitress why it was so popular and she explained that it is sweeter and less bitter than Campari. She also mentioned that it is affordable as a cocktail and more refreshing than wine or the (unusually awful) Italian beers regularly on offer. 

Tarte Flambee 

A note from experience: never EVER compare the Alsatian tarte flambee to a thin crust pizza made with bechamel sauce. This wood-oven baked, uber-thin pie is simple yet elegant with its toppings of lardon, onion and fromage blanc...and it is ideal beer-drinking food. We stopped by a birthday party for a friend of a friend in the Alsatian village of Roppenheim, on our way to Baden-Baden one day. The birthday boy, Julien, was very welcoming and encouraged us to stay for drinks and, of course, some flambee. We watched in anticipation as they prepared the pies in the back of the community hall, via portable wood oven. Once the pies were ready we pretty much inhaled the first round and were offered more by the generous guests. We didn't hang around for too long, however, because we wanted to see the spa town Baden-Baden before it got too late. We said goodbye to our new French friends, Julien and Marion, with a new appreciation for this northern variation of the pizza pie.  

Porchetta

While we had heard of this dish through Mario Batali on the Food Network, we had never tried it prior to visiting the Farmers' Market in Verona. Consisting of an entire de-boned, fire-roasted pig, this uniquely Italian pork roast is famous for its texture and spices. As per usual, slices of this roast were served to us in a panino, and the vendor was very careful to fill the bun with equal portions of crispy skin, succulent fat, and tender flesh. It sounds a bit gruesome, and the head of the pig that was on display in the stall was indeed graphic, but this dish really did smack of history and culinary passion. The vendor seemed very proud to serve the animal that he had raised and prepared, and the head of the animal simply acted as an acknowledgement of the sacrifices that were made in order to present the dish to the public.

Brined Herring

Paraphrasing my Dutch friend Maaike: "We are genetically programmed to enjoy nieuwe haring. Even if a Dutch person dislikes the concept of eating an entire pickled Herring by the tail, he will be unable to refuse due to our history with this fish." When I committed to trying an entire brined Herring, sans bun/sauce/barf bag, I was pretty sure that I would not be able to consume it without gagging or stopping after a few bites. I like seafood, and I have been eating smoked Herring since I was little, but the consistency of nieuwe haring from the Netherlands is something to be reckoned with. Slimy, super fishy, and dense, the texture of this speciality is quite different from smoked and/or canned Herring. I did gag on the first bite, but the flavour was rich and pleasant, so I took a breather and continued on. I admit that I did not finish the entire fish, but I did eat 80% of it.    

Vancouver Fringe 2010

Having lived in Edinburgh - home to the largest theatre festival in the world - Vancouver's Fringe Fest seems small and disorganized. However, it is young, and it is gaining popularity despite funding cutbacks.

I attended the Fringe for the first time last year and really enjoyed myself. Granville Island is transformed into an artsy, loud, fun bazaar of tourists, locals, self-proclaimed theatre nerds, actors, and late-night cafes. The reality is that you will see some amateurish doozies, but hidden amongst those amateurish doozies will be a few golden nuggets. At about $10 a pop, you can see four or five plays for the price of one play produced by our established Arts Club Theatre or Playhouse Theatre Company.

If low-budget, unpredictable, raucous theatre isn't really your "thang", just wait until the Pick of the Fringe later in September. This consists of the most popular plays being reprised for limited-time viewing...and most of them are very good. The only drawback to attending the Pick of the Fringe is that it lacks the atmosphere of the real Fringe, in all of its inconsistent, flamboyant glory.

The Fringe runs from September 9-19, and Pick of the Fringe runs from September 23-26.

Hastings Park - Friday Night Light Beers

Hastings Park Racetrack, just north of Vancouver's Playland and PNE grounds, can always be counted on for mediocre horse racing, successful Mexican jockeys, expectorating old Asian men, spectacular views of the Coast Mountains, and sweet sweet gambling. While Hastings Park sits cantle to most of North America's racetracks (including Ontario's Woodbine, which just hosted the Queen for the annual Queen's Plate), it definitely has its charms and I enjoy supporting it.

Although Hastings Park has drastically cut-back their number of racing days over the past 10 years (there are only races on three days per week now), the management is trying hard to promote the joys of gambling, and to lure some of the hipsters in from Commercial and Main. Since last summer, races  run on Friday nights - instead of the afternoon - and these seedy soirees come complete with DJ spinning, $3.50 domestic sleeves, and movie nights. For example, they will be showing Top Gun on July 16th, and Beverly Hills Cop on July 23rd. Movies start half an hour after the last race, at about 10:30pm.

While I will likely be skipping these 80s gems, I do hit-up Hastings Park a few times every summer. I have a shameful addiction to hotdogs with grilled onions and $1 Exacta Box bets, and my incessant yearnings for broiled byproduct and cautious wagering are always satiated at Hastings Park. Plus, entrance to the racetrack is always free! You now have no excuses to avoid supporting this aging Vancouver landmark!

Keywords: Alex Dawkins, "Vancouver Event Listings"