Harvest Deli in Vancouver

I live four blocks from Harvest Deli and have now eaten ten sandwiches from this tiny Kitsilano deli. In fact, I am eating a BAM right now, and honestly think it may be the best sandwich I have ever had: grilled and buttered sourdough, generous amounts of crispy bacon, ripe avocado, caramelised onions, arugula, melted aged cheddar, and russian dressing. It is super super awesome. I just turned to my girlfriend to ask her to contribute to this review, but her BAM disappeared after the first sentence. Amazingly good.

Each sandwich is made to order and the ingredients are very very fresh, and thoughtfully composed. The owner also makes two soups fresh every day, and service is prompt and polite. I lived in the UK for several years, and there are sandwich shops in every neighbourhood. Whether it is due to VanCity's fear of carbs, or due to our city's eclectic tastes and wide variety of ethnic options, Vancouver has surprisingly few delis and sandwich shops. When done right, a sandwich is the perfect food, and HD has restored my passion for these simple yet satisfying snacks.

I have a few minor criticisms. Their multigrain bun is fairly dense and detracts from the delicious fillings within. Also, the business has been working on its branding and signage for about a year, and this gives the shop a "temporary" and slightly unprofessional feel. There are over two dozen sandwich options, but the menu is a bit confusing and wordy. Once you know how to navigate through it, everything is fine and scrumptious...but I was intimidated by it the first time I explored it. Nitpicking aside, I am a HUGE fan and a bi-weekly supporter of Harvest Deli. Mmmmmmm.

PS - A good tactic to tackle HD's massive menu: bring a buddy, order two sandwiches, and then split them. Bam!

Black Rook Bakehouse

There are a few consumables that I am always on the lookout for: new craft beer, awesome sandwich shops, cinnamon buns, diverse 5¢ candy collections, and worthwhile pies. While the concept of pie is simple - filling inside of a pastry shell - there are many factors that can make or break one of these universally-popular baked goods. There are runny fillings, there are cheap fillings, and there are bland fillings. And there are lardy crusts, there are dry crusts, and there are tough crusts. It is very difficult to find a pie with the perfect filling, regardless of whether we are talking savory or sweet, and a rich yet delicate crust. 

Black Rook's Bumble-Rhubarb

Black Rook is pretty close to making a perfect pie. A generous co-worker purchased a whole pie for my going away on one of my last days of work and everyone in my department was thoroughly impressed. I have tried Savary Island Pie in West Vancouver, and I live near Aphrodite's on 4th, but both of these touted pie producers are overpriced and only just above average. Representing everything that Black Rook creates, this pie had a rustic crust that was supple and looked as though it even contained some whole wheat. This pie was custom and contained rhubarb, raspberries, and blackberries. The filling was dense and didn't budge once cut into. It was also a perfect balance of berry-sweet and rhubarb-tart.

I have yet to try the range of items at Black Rook, but this one pie experience ensured that I will be a repeat patron. Thanks Rory! 



Keywords: "Best Vancouver Pies", "Black Rook Bakehouse", "Alex Dawkins"

Sissiboo Coffee Roasters in Bear River

Between August 28-31 of this year, I visited my girlfriend's family cottage in Bear River, Nova Scotia...all the way from Vancouver! At first, this village looks dull and sleepy, but things are happening in Bear River. Residents are looking inwards to agriculture and local talent rather than outwards to tourists for economic stimulation. One example can be seen in the Flight of Fancy art gallery, which features local and provincial artists, and another can be seen in Sissiboo Coffee Roasters. The unique name 'Sissiboo' was derived from the Sissiboo River in southwest Nova Scotia. This river was named by a Loyalist settler who mistook a Mik'maq who was pointing out six owls ('six hiboux') instead of pointing out the river. Stupid colonialists. 

Based in the historic 'Rebekah' building, Sissiboo was started three years ago by Erin Schopfer and Jon Welch. After many years of analysing and learning about the coffee industry, Erin and Jon made the careful decision to launch a micro roastery in their hometown. Jon checks each batch by eye, hand, and smell at least four times during his roasting process - a process that is applied to each seven-pound batch. Each batch has an individual roasting time which has to be explicitly followed, a few seconds too long and the batch takes on an undesired flavour. This is different from most roasters, which employ laptops and software and crazy expensive machines to monitor their beans. Erin and Jon do not yet have a storefront or café, but I think this is a no-brainer for their brainchild. 

I have tried three of their roasts: Fundy Storm (Peru, dark), Tobeatic Wild (Guatemala, medium), and Fly by Night Decaf (Peru, swiss water, medium). I did not like the lack of body and bitter finish of the Tobeatic Wild at all, but Fundy Storm is great as both a dark pourover or espresso. They do, for your information, have an espresso roast as well, called Night Owl!


Keywords: "Sissiboo Coffee", "Bear River, NS", "Vancouver Roasters"

Rocanini Coffee Roasters

My first time here was at a Yelp event in March and I learned a great deal about the coffee industry at this crash course in roasting. I would not recommend Rocanini as a cafe. This is a roastery, in the factory and small manufacturing district of Vancouver, and the cafe within the business is clearly an addendum. Sharif was hosting the event I attended and he was extremely open and frank about both the coffee world and his business' practices. For example, I learned that the average cost for one pound of decent green beans in North America is $5. This means that roasters add between $10-$15 to roast, package, and distribute their product. This seemed like a lot to me when Sharif was describing it, but then he explained that money must also be spent on marketing and staffing. A $10-$15 markup is not a huge amount.

The most valuable activity we participated in at Rocanini was a cupping session based on SCA (Specialty Coffee Association) standards. Cupping involves brewing a predetermined amount of freshly ground beans with a consistent amount of water at 195-205 °F (95 °C) and then both sniffing and slurping the coffee after four minutes. This method forces you to really concetrate on the idiosyncratic qualities of EACH bean, in its purest form. I find taste tests like this to be the most helpful when trying to memorize traits of my favourite foods and drinks that come in unique varieties: single malt, wine, cheese, and cured meats.

At Rocanini we cupped Sumatran, Ethiopian, and Costa Rican grounds. The flavours were completely different from one another, and these differences would not have been as pronounced had the beans been blended or diluted with milk. Sharif explained that coffee aromas and taste profiles are really affected by altitude, and that this is one of the reasons Indonesian coffees are more earthy and one-dimensional than beans grown up in the mountains. The Ethiopian coffee was floral and acidic, while the Costa Rican was nutty with hints of citrus.

After this experience I could really relate to those who are obsessed with this dynamic bean, and it's hard not to become a bit snobby when one spends so much time studying and appreciating a favourite subject (i.e. drink, artist, animal, tv show...). However, as Sharif said, sometimes you just feel like a Timmy Hos. The staff at Rocanini are knowledgeable without being pretentious, and this seems to be rare in the coffee roasting world.

Keywords: "Alex Dawkins", "Vancouver Coffee Roasters", "49th Parallel"

Elite Danish Bakery in Burnaby

Even though I have lived in the Lower Mainland my entire life, I know very little about any community outside of Vancouver. I have always lived in Kits and my ignorance of our suburban towns is so high that I get panicky any time I am east of Commercial Drive. I recently secured a contract job with BC Hydro that required I commute to Edmonds in Burnaby. On my first day of work I got off the Skytrain and was totally disoriented. If someone had walked up to me and said I was in Asheville, North Carolina I would have believed them, so poor is my knowledge of Burnaby and its environs. Fortunately, one of my co-workers at BC Hydro was a huge foodie who lives in that neck of the woods and immediately started firing-off recommendations once she discovered I was a Yelper. One of her favourite places was (and still is!) Elite Bakery.

In a squat, unattractive strip of small shops on sleepy Rumble Street lies Elite, with its massive 'ALMOND KRINGLE' sign in the window. This is a Danish bakery, and I did not know much about Danish baked goods before eating here. I'll save you a Google search and tell you all you need to know about pastries from this part of the world: almonds. Every freakin' item in Elite (besides the out-of-place samosas and buttery copenhagens) was either almond or marzipan based, including the massive and eccles-like kringle. I bought some kransekage cookies and an almond-chocolate slice. Both had an outstanding texture, with crisp exteriors and chewy interiors, and the almond flavour didn't slap you in the ansigt. The service was also great. I guess there IS good food beyond the far reaches of East Van!

Keywords: "best vancouver bakery", "Alex Dawkins", "vancouver food blog"

Boo, Beaucoup...Boo!

Although the combination of coffee and pastry is one of my absolute favourites, and is a pairing that I indulge in daily, I was leery of Beaucoup from the get-go. From their six-month delay in opening, to the stabbing that occurred outside the bakery on September 13th, I just got an unsure vibe from this place from the very beginning...and my two recent visits have confirmed my early suspicions.

I need to reiterate the fact that I have an abnormal affinity for baked goods. I mean, I am pretty much a lifer at a place if it is a) an amazing coffeeshop with good pastries or b) an outstanding bakery with decent coffee. Beaucoup is a French-style bakery that produces delicately-prepared tarts, pain au chocolat, and double-baked croissants. They also serve 49th Parallel coffee. Unquestionable winner, right? Wrong!

First off, the range of baked goods they offer is incredibly limited and very expensive. They *only* produce French-style items, which are UBER buttery, flaky, fattening, and ultimately unsatisfying. Second, the use of good coffee beans does not equate to the creation of good coffee beverages. The dairy-to-espresso ratio was off for both the cappuccino and latte I had there, and the servers never attempt to inquire about your preferences (type of milk, dry/wet foam, to stay/to go, et cetera).

And yet another thing that bothers me about Beaucoup: the service. Both of the times I went to Beaucoup I asked for my drinks to be "for here", and they made my coffees in to-go cups. While this isn't the end of the world, it doesn't happen at better bakery-cafes (such as Terra Breads on 4th and Cafe Bica down the road on Fir) and it generally indicates a lack of care on the part of the Beaucoup barista.

I am boycotting Beaucoup. They just can't compete with the products and services provided in this neighbourhood. 

Keywords: "Beaucoup Bakery & Cafe", "49th Parallel Vancouver", "Alex Dawkins" 

Nelson Cafe Competition

Like most ski towns, Nelson has a good selection of pubs and cafes for people to meet-up before and after their trip to the hills. While I don't ski or snowboard, I do love drinking, so I have been scouring the beverage scene. Below is an analysis of the popular coffeeshops in the city centre.

Sidewinders
Yes, Sidewinders serves coffee, but this is the only good thing about the business. I went to Sidewinders because there are always people inside, and because there are only so many coffeeshops in Nelson, but I won't be back. The service was terrible. Not only did the girl serving appear as though somebody had just drowned her goldfish, she was also speaking to her co-worker non-stop and barely acknowledged my existence (or the existence of my cash, which was paying her wage). The baked goods on offer looked bland and glutinous, and this is coming from someone who might actually sacrifice an earlobe or pinky for an outstanding cinnamon bun. The decor was also bland and unwelcoming. Most of the chairs and tables were rigid and ergonomically detrimental, and the four comfortable chairs in the window stood alone...so you could be comfortable while you were consuming your coffee, but you would have to balance your mug in your lap. The tragic thing about Sidewinders is that their Kicking Horse coffee is pretty good. Skip this doozy and grab your cuppa at Oso Negro or The Dominion.


Oso Negro
This is definitely the best cafe in town. They import beans from around the world and roast them right here, up at Nelson Brewing Company actually. The brother of a co-worker works there and I was able to see the roasting in situ. Not only do they roast locally and have a clean, open, comfortable cafe with awesome pastries...their coffee is also good. Just because a place roasts their own beans doesn't mean they know how to roast them properly and consistently (see: Vancouver's Continental Coffee on Commercial). While it doesn't make for sexy blog writing, I must mention how great the customer service is too. When employees demonstrate good customer service skills - such as eye contact, politeness, attention to detail - it reflects well on the product being sold. As a customer, you can tell that the baristas take pride in the product at Oso, and that the cashiers are happy to be working there. This place is the shizz, and everyone in town knows it. It is always packed and has been around forever. While it is tempting to go there every day, I try to support some of the other good cafes, such as The Dominion. Spread the cash. 


The Dominion
I live for kickass independent cafes. While this statement may seem hyperbolic, you must understand that one of my hobbies and true joys in life is finding and patronising independent coffeeshops. I love everything about them: drinking coffee, sitting, reading, surfing the web, consuming homemade baked goods, casually meeting with friends and acquaintances...everything good in life! Nelson has some great cafes, and Dominion meets many of my needs as a coffee-addicted cafe junky. The decor is domestic and warm, the coffee is wonderful, they offer a decent selection of muffins and cakes made in-house, and they are an independent business. If you have looked at any of my other reviews, you will know that two things really irritate me: poor customer service and establishments that do not accept plastic. The servers at Dominion are adequate but slightly inattentive, and the cafe is cash only. Seriously guys, pay the 0.02% service charge and get a darn-tootin' debit machine. This is the Nineties, man!

Nelson: Where You Can Grab a 

Coffee in Your PJ Bottoms

John Ward Fine Coffee
Located right in the centre of town, just up from Touchstones Museum on Baker, John Ward Coffee offers beverages that reflect the decor of the business. The interior has been decorated like a mid-century milk bar, with white-washed furniture, retro checkered flooring, and antique appointments. The layout is clean and uncluttered, and the items on offer are appropriately limited. John Ward focuses on creating classic coffee selections - cappuccino, espresso, macchiato - and does not offer fraps or chocolate-chip mint concoctions. They have fairly good baked goods, but they are overpriced, hence my three-star rating. I have tried their coconut chocolate cookies and a few squares, but it seems wrong paying the same amount for my cookie as my coffee. A solid cafe though, overall.


The Vienna
Is it a bad thing when you are in a cafe but it feels as though you are in a hippie's rumpus room from 1978? I don't know if it's a "bad" thing, but I do not actively seek the "hippie rumpus room" ambience when craving a bold cappuccino or a quiet space in which to read and concentrate. I don't really mind The Vienna, but only because I view this space as a bookstore with a cafe, rather than a coffeeshop located incestuously close to an autonomous book shop. With plastic tablecloths, dirty blue carpeting, and an incohesive layout, the decor of this cafe does not reflect the goods that they serve. Their coffee and baked goods are above average, but this is not a place that you would choose to spend a great deal of time in. You may sit down for a drink after buying a new book at the neighbour's shop (Packrat Annie's), but you would not select this business over Oso Negro or the Dominion, which is just across the road.

Rumpus Room or Respectable Business?

Keywords: "Alex Dawkins", "Nelson restaurants", "Oso Negro Nelson", "Kootenays attractions"

Best Cinnamon Buns in Vancouver - God Said So

I am going to make a bold claim: cinnamon buns are the best pastry to consume with coffee. Yes, I believe that they are better than doughnuts (because of their absorbency resistance), cookies (due their structural elegance and complexity) and cherry pie (despite what Dale Cooper thinks). The sweetness of cinnamon buns counteracts the bitterness of coffee, and the earthy characteristics of the cinnamon reflect the fuscous flavour of the beans that must be roasted and ground to create a cup of joe. I have waffled on this issue for many years, but having completed hundreds of tests - utilizing baked goods from around the world - I can scientifically state that God wanted humans to eat cinnamon buns with their daily grind.

Fortunately, I have some excellent cinnamon bun providers in my vicinity. The interesting thing about this fact is that all of these providers offer unique and distinctive products:

Solly's

A Jewish bakery with locations in Kits, Cambie Village, and Main Street, Solly's offers more bagels, knish, and rugoleh than you can shake a shtekn at. I really dislike the management and service at all three locations, but I keep going back because I love their...you guessed it...cinnamon buns. With their concentrical construction and caramelized tops, these tight buns are packed with cinnamon. Their lack of icing and their thin layers also trick you into thinking that they are *slightly* better for you than a Cinnabon, but I doubt it. 

Grounds for Coffee

I have been going here for years because a) I am a professional student and b) this cafe is right beside the 99 B-Line stop where I catch the bus up to UBC. They have been making moist (ya ya...we all hate this word, but it is really appropriate here), sloppy cinnamon buns for more than a decade, but they actually expanded their business about five years ago in order to ramp up production. They now deliver their archetypal, icing-laden, puffy delights all over town. They are good, don't get me wrong, but they lack defining features.

Calhoun's

I hate Calhoun's. It's always packed with loitering UBC students, the food is average, and the uber high ceilings obliterate any hope of having a meaningful conversation or comfortable coffee break. Having said this, they regularly serve these dense, quick-bread-esque cinnamon buns that remind me of highschool Home Ec (because this is the one recipe that I remember actually working out for me). Similar to a scone in consistency, this type of cinnamon bun can be surprisingly satisfying when cut in half and embellished with butter.

Urban Fare

Although they are not available all of the time, Urban Fare's raspberry and blackberry cinnamon buns are refreshingly fruity. I am pretty conservative when it comes to the pastry standards - such as croissants, cinnamon buns, and scones - but I was pleasantly surprised by the addition of these juicy drupelets. The dough is often light as well, and they never go crazy with the icing.    

Cafe Bica in the Armoury District

As the most recent addition to the newly-established 'Armoury District' in Kits, Cafe Bica is a welcome addition to this emerging neighbourhood that is growing between Fir and Burrard, bordered by 4th Avenue. There are several business and land owners in this area, including the proprietors of East India Carpets, who are making a huge effort to transform this sleepy section of Vancouver into a hub for interior design and architectural services. Have you ever wondered what enables those architects and contractors to work on projects for 16 hours a day? Coffee! This is where Bica comes in.

About two years ago, a small cafe at 1st and Fir opened called the More Please Cafe. I knew the owner, and I blogged about it, but it only stayed open for 16 months due to poor walk-in traffic and an unfortunate tenancy battle. I live and work in this area, and I absolutely detest having to rely upon the local Starbucks for my daily caffeine fix. You can imagine how happy I was to hear that a new cafe would be opening up in tha hood by 2011.

Offering sandwiches, a wide variety of beverages, and freedom from those pesky corporate coffee chains, Cafe Bica is sleek and simple. Next time you head down to Granville Island, take some time to wander around this new and trendy neighbourhood. Two of my favourite stores are in this area already: Lattimer Gallery and Les Amis du Fromage. Just when I thought it couldn't get any better!

Hide from the Bustle - The VAG Cafe

This past summer, I volunteered at the Vancouver Art Gallery every week as part of my Library and Archives Masters program. I am a born-and-raised Vancouverite, and I have always known about the intimate and airy Gallery Cafe, but I didn't realise that they produce such a wide and delectable range of items. From panini to a variety of interesting salads, the Cafe serves a diverse selection appropriate for both lunch and dinner. The VAG Gallery Cafe actually has one of the best patios in the city, which is a great place to enjoy a drink on a summer's eve.

Sadly, the coffee is only so-so, and I often hopped over to Artigiano across the street for my morning cappuccino. However, I would always grab a pastry from the Gallery Cafe. They have an amazing dessert section which changes daily. Popular items include a chubby blueberry pie, dark chocolate bread pudding, trifle, lavender creme caramel, and rhubarb muffins. I...ummmm... have a sweet tooth.

I disagree with a number of people I have spoken to who claim that the Gallery Cafe is expensive, or that it is laid out like a cafeteria. Resembling many of the great museum cafes of North America and Europe, the VAG Gallery Cafe employs a deli set-up, which is an efficient format for employees and patrons alike. It is usually logistically impossible (and just plain unnecessary) for galleries and museums to have full-service restaurants, although many of them (including the Gallery Cafe) do serve restaurant-quality vittles.

Keywords: "Alexander Dawkins" , "Vancouver Art Gallery", "Vancouver Patios"

That's Affogato, Not Avocado!

Since the age of 17, I have consumed at least one cup of coffee - in filtered or espresso form - every day of my life. I am not, however, an extreme coffee drinker. I never have more than two cups a day. Over the past two months, I have developed an unquenchable desire for affogato - the common Italian and south German dessert consisting of vanilla ice cream and espresso. 

Perhaps this bestial thirst has been triggered by the unusually warm summer temperatures,  or perhaps my coffee-based tastes are evolving and searching for new flavour combinations. Whatever the case may be, I have been combing the city for establishments that make great espresso, serve vanilla ice cream, and do not require table service. This quest is much harder than you would think for a cosmopolitan city such as Vancouver. 


I have been getting my fix at the following locations, in my neighbourhood, but I would love to hear of other ristretto pushers and gelato mongers in the city. For example, I am sure that Commercial Drive has a few sweet spots. I've been hitting up:


- Trixi's Coffeehaus (3306 Cambie): decent espresso-based drinks and wonderful crepes

- Amato Gelato Cafe (88 East 1st Ave): located within Mario's Gelati headquarters, this cafe has both excellent coffee and ice cream...great stop during a walk around the seawall

- Whole Foods (510 West 8th Ave at Cambie): I know, I know...no self-respecting espresso connoisseur would ever frequent Whole Foods, but they can provide what many superior cafes cannot...affogato!

Catering to Coffeeshops

I love independent cafes, and I really do go out of my way to avoid (ball-and-)chain coffeeshops. However, I not really diggin this increasingly-popular trend of the cafe format being fused together with deli and/or catering getups.

I was recently exploring the yuppie-filled sidestreets and hippiecondo-filled blocks of Kits Point for new and quality coffeeshops when I spotted Quince just east of Burrard, on West 3rd Avenue. Quince is just one of the many catering outfits in the city that is also trying to pass as a cafe and deli. It reminds me of the now defunct Sensational Suppers or the popular The Butler Did It in that it is clearly a business focused on catering that attempts to attract passers-by with take-out meals and coffee. This is not a bad business model in theory but - like Communism or clear beer - it just doesn't work in practice. The focus on meal preparation, corporate customers, and large-scale food production makes it nearly impossible for businesses like this to create a setting wherein locals and people off the street can enjoy a quality coffee, tea, or baked good in a space that is comfortable and neighbourly.

Quince and the many catercoffeeshops that are popping up around town often offer quality product, in an isolated sense: they serve great coffee, they always have fresh pastry, the layouts are slick, they offer a wide range of catering services and options, and their take-out meals are outstanding. Unfortunately, when these elements are combined, the poor punter who is hoping to enjoy a crema-clad coffee at a local and inviting independent cafe ends up entering a space suffering from an identity crisis...a perfectly prepared, stylish identity crisis. 

Blondy's or Brunettes?

As anyone who knows me or reads my reviews is well aware, I have an unusual passion - bordering on obsession - for small, individually- owned coffeeshops. I love everything about them: the "little guy" acumen, the attention to detail, the superior coffee, the idiosyncratic interiors, and the fact that there is still a need in society for establishments dedicated to socializing and idea-sharing (even if it IS in the form of wi-fi...which Blondy's provides).

Although I only work four blocks from Blondy's, the proprietress' mother had to inform me of its existence and encourage me to try it out. I am glad I had this chance encounter with the owner's mom because this coffeeshop is literally a hole in the wall. Okay, it's not "literally" a hole in a wall along 4th Avenue, but it *is* a hole-in-the-wall in the colloquial sense. Right on the NW-corner of 4th and Pine, Blondy's is sandwiched in betwixt a board shop and an electric scooter rental storefront.

Speaking of sandwiches, Blondy's makes some good ones, and they always have one or two vegetarian options, which I value, even though I am not vegetarian. I have had their wild mushroom and goat cheese panini, as well ask their Mexican chicken toasted sandwich. These are priced at $6.95, which I think is a tad high but is kind of a standard price now for joints like this. Blondy's also has a decent selection of baked goods, some of which are made by the owner and some of which are brought in.

Most importantly, the coffee is great. The baristas definitely know what they are doing, and are clearly prepared for the picky palates of Vancouver coffee connoisseurs. My one criticism of this cafe is that the aforementioned baristas are a bit obnoxious and overly-friendly. Plus, there always seems to be a gaggle of young, jabbering riders hovering around the entrance, who are somehow associated with the ownership.